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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: fewer new class A vs. 10 year rule
If you take care of your rig and it looks in good condition you aren't going to be rejected based only on age. Maybe if you act like an idiot or your rig looks every bit of its 15 years then you might have a problem.
I've seen plenty of older rigs that look better than some that are only a couple of years old. Simply because the newer coach owners had never taken the time to wash the road dirt and mud from their unit since it left the dealer lot while the older unit owners had theirs washed and waxed every year.
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Aridon
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12/01/08 05:10pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Legal question: Is a search warrant required for RV entry?
When in motion (on a road way) I don't believe they need any sort of a warant to search your vehicle just some form of Probable cause which in some areas could be just about anything they want. Meaning its pretty easy for them to search if they really want too. If that search would later be thrown out of court is another matter.
When stationary because of your ability to easily flee I also don't believe they need a warant if they have probable cause to search you.
It all comes down to that probable cause condition which depending on situation could be very easy to produce at the scene but perhaps hard to justify in court.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Probable_cause
Regardless why create more drama for yourself? I've never had an officer want to search us except once in a border crossing which is a whole different ball game. If they ask they can search until they are blue in the face there is nothing in my vehicle.
As a CWP holder i know the rules concerning me carrying in another state. If you do it and there is no reprocity in that state then expect to get arrested. Its not worth the hassle. If you absolutely must carry for whatever reason then break down the weapons while in transit and store the ammo in a locked container. I believe most states allow transport if the weapon is broken down into 3 or more parts and locked away from the ammo.
I'm not a LEO nor am I a lawyer. I'd suggest contacting them in your home state and in any state you will travel extensively so you are in compliance with their laws.
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Aridon
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11/30/08 04:22pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: solution to rving at Js
I would never open our slides during boon docking and take two spots. We aren't camping we are stopping for some quick sleep. The last thing I want to do is piss off the truckers and any other people in the area we are staying and taking two spots up would certainly do that especially when its full.
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Aridon
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11/28/08 04:29pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Hydro Hot or Not?? ISL 400?
I wouldn't own a coach without one after having it.
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Aridon
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11/27/08 07:10pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Crude Oil
Election is over--what did you expect? Besides, the whole oil issue backfired on Congress--they had to placate the voters by "saying" they would open off shore drilling--which, of course, they have no intention of doing now that the price of oil has been "reduced". It is all a shell game. You can blame "speculators" and OPEC but the only rhyme and reason you paid so much last year was because of politics--the opposition needed something else to blame on Bush--it worked and each of us contributed to winner's campaign fund with our purchase of artificially inflated oil.
Politicians have no control over the price of oil. Its priced on a global market and is subject to being over bought and over sold just like any stock or commodity that is traded.
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Aridon
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11/20/08 04:29pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: short term storage in Florida
seems in south FL everything is at a premium... a friend of mine left his in a storage facility and short term was a months fee 1 day or thirty didn't matter... still cheaper but less secure than in a campground...
Maybe some day they will choke on their own greed…
Location location location.
Naturally people want to come here its one of the few places with a great winter of mostly 70's weather. Not many places in the US have it so naturally it can be a little more expensive than a less desireable place.
Greedy? Perhaps, but no more so than expecting to come here and pay rock bottom pricing to boot.
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Aridon
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11/19/08 08:57pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Selling house, buying TT
Spend some time in all the units without the sales guy, lots of time. Use it like you would live in it and see how you feel after doing that for a few weekends of spending a few hours a day at the dealer. If you aren't happy then check out some other brands and continue the search. If you are then go for it.
This decision isn't something to just jump into, its a big lifestyle change but one that we personally love and enjoy since we've been doing it.
You can full time in anything, its a mindset not necessarily what you live in as they all have mostly the same things. Some are a little bigger, a little nicer but essentially they are all very similar. An entry level TT will last you a good while if you take good care of it and keep up with the TLC.
For waranty work its probably best to no let them know you live in it full time as many manufacturers have clauses against full time use.
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Aridon
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11/18/08 07:46pm |
Full-time RVing
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RE: Fleetwood Excursion, Revolution, or American Coach
Double post pardon.
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Aridon
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11/17/08 08:21pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fleetwood Excursion, Revolution, or American Coach
Surprised at the 2000 CCC. It is a Spartan K2 ,I think. Where did you get CCC of 2000 lbs?
It might be K2 modules on a Liberty Chassis
Full wall slide . Full tile floors it all adds up !
Newmar has had its CCC problems to . Telling one to stick to Newmar may be a bad decision .
With over 9k LBS of CCC and full wall slide / granite / tile / real wood trim + cabinets I'd reckon we are just fine with Newmar and their CCC.
Personally I'd avoid any Fleetwood product but they do make a few attractive coaches when you take a quick look at them.
I'd stick with Tiffin or Newmar. Others will disagree.
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Aridon
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11/17/08 08:21pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: fluorescent light - Odd issue with all of them
House batteries are fine, 4 6 volts and each of them show 7.9 volts i believe it was. House panel shows 13.4 volts on float charge.Somethings not right. 2 X 7.9 volts would be 15.8 volts which would explain why you are loosing light fixtures.
Sam
I'm so sorry I mistyped, 6.9 my fingers were moving faster than my brain and went one key over too many.
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Aridon
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11/17/08 06:37pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: fluorescent light - Odd issue with all of them
Spoke with an electrician friend of mine.
He said its can't be an open ground because if it was the light wouldn't work, much less work for 10 minutes or so and then shut off. It would be an almost instant fry being DC voltage if it even turned on at all.
His suggestion was to swap to a different light that didn't have the balast in with the light bulbs in a small area all contained as he believes its just the balast overheating.
Going to try that and see what happens.
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Aridon
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11/17/08 06:20pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: fluorescent light - Odd issue with all of them
The "Ballast" on a 12 volt florescent light is either a DC/DC converter or an Inverter (Without looking closer I'm not sure which) It is not a ballast as used on 120vac lamps (Which is mostly and inductor)
The O/P said: "Battery shows good but can't get a voltage reading from it"
In theory, when you are on shore power, the battery (ies) should always show "GOOD" on the panel display, cause it's reading the converter
If you can't get a voltage reading on the battery itself.. You have a problem
1: The battery is DISCONNECTED
2: IT is DEADer than a door nail
He was asking me to check the voltage on a regular D battery, didn't have one so tried a AA.
House batteries are fine, 4 6 volts and each of them show 7.9 volts i believe it was. House panel shows 13.4 volts on float charge.
I don't believe its the batteries or the voltage. It could be an open ground or bad lights.
How can I test for an open ground?
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Aridon
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11/17/08 03:58pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: fluorescent light - Odd issue with all of them
Now this may sound strange.. but What converter do you have in that rig?
Explanaiton:
There are several converers. Some of them are very very very good, some good, some.... Well... Some you are almost better off without
And if the voltage goes too high it will cause the "Ballast" on the lights to overheat
Also, hang a digital volt meter on
1: a fresh "D" cell battery (you can try smaller if you have not a "D" handy
Note the reading and then
2: Hang it on the power lead to the light.. And note the reading
3: Post your notes
Magnum Energy ME Series I believe...
i'm using an older volt meter
http://www.asenashop.com/pg/niceimg.php?pid=19634
Battery shows good but can't get a voltage reading from it
I posted the voltage reading from the coach electrical above. It shows just over 13 volts both with the light off and on.
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Aridon
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11/16/08 09:08pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: fluorescent light - Odd issue with all of them
Is it safe to asume that you checked the voltage at the lights with them turned on and not off? If not, the voltage under load might be dropping and this is causing the overheating problem. Also did you check for any resistance in the ground path? Where and how you measured the available voltage might have missed the problem.
Checked the voltage with them on and off. Pulled the light down at the point where the light wires connect to the coach electrical system. Both readings are identical.
I do not know how to check ground resistance? Is that something fairly easy to check? I'm sort of an electrical noob, I know just enough to get myself in trouble.
Using this meter: http://www.asenashop.com/pg/niceimg.php?pid=19634
They are the thin light brand. I was guessing that the ground could have come loose and would cause it to over heat but I'm not sure how in the heck to test that? Might be beyond my capabilities.
I'll run down and check the converter in a bit. Not sure what brand it is.
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Aridon
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11/16/08 08:49pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: fluorescent light - Odd issue with all of them
Get a set of new tubes and try in one fixture. If it cools down move to another.
Tubes start breaking down and need more power to keep operating.
Thank you for the suggestion, I've tried swapping out new tubes with zero effect.
Any other suggestions? I may just cave in and buy a new light hoping that will fix the issue. We are under waranty but I'd rather not have to travel 150 miles to get this fixed if i can help it.
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Aridon
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11/16/08 07:35pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Buying a Class A, should I sell the popup?
Unless you travel with more people than the Class A can accomodate I'd sell it or give it to some family memebers that might enjoy it. Just depends.
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Aridon
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11/16/08 06:21pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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fluorescent light - Odd issue with all of them
We are having an odd issue with our fluorescent lighting in our RV.
No issues for the first few months.
Now what we are seeing is the Ballast on nearly all of our fluorescents is getting hot and shutting down the light. This is happening on every fluorescent except one.
I need suggestions on what to check. I'm not very handy but learn fairly quickly when I have to take something apart.
1. Our voltage on the connections is a solid 13 volts.
2. A smaller fluorescent works on the same circuit / switch as 2 larger ones with this issue
3. I've tried swapping 20 amp fuses no luck
4. I've tried shutting everything down and letting things sit with no power hopefully to reset something
What could the other culprits be and how can I check?
I can't believe that 7 fluorescents would all go bad at almost the same time.
**EDIT***
Forgot to add that if its cold in the RV (70ish or below) the lights will tend to work longer or perhaps not shut off. Also if I put a fan on the light it will stay on as the balast is not getting as hot like when the ambient temperature is warmer or if there is no fan blowing air.
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Aridon
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11/16/08 04:28pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: American Allegiance/Tradition or Tiffin Allegro Bus?
Tiffin. No doubt in my mind out of those.
I'd also check out Newmar, they'll customize things for you unlike the other companies and build a great coach.
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Aridon
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11/12/08 04:32pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Is this logical?
If fuel is your bottom line then just buy the gasser.
If you WANT / NEED something larger than 39ft with plenty of CCC and gain the other advantages of a diesel such as Air bags, higher CCC, better handling / chassis, more amenities then look at the better diesels.
I don't see much value in buying low end diesels unless you really drive lots of miles. I think the higher end gas units offer just as much for less in that case. When you start getting into middle market diesels from good companies like Newmar and Tiffin they start to pull away from the gassers. Show me a gasser with over 10k in CCC, full wall slide and is 43+ ft? Much less comes with all the goodies like hydro hot, granite and polished porcelain tile. They don't exist and thats why we went there.
You are either in the price range of a diesel or you are not. Simply speaking you can buy a lot of coach for the money and get a great gasser that will serve you well for as long as you are willing to look at it. If you want a little more and don't mind paying for it then its there.
If fuel is even in the equation then get the gasser IMO.
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Aridon
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11/12/08 04:27pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: RV or Not RV - That is the question
We find the lifestyle works best for us at this time. That many change in the future, it may not. Either way, for now, this is what is best for us.
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Aridon
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11/10/08 07:05pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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